/ Valentina Ciprian / to discover nature travel by bike
How to experience the Dolomites as a local
Dolomites, a name that identifies an Alpine paradise capable of capturing the imagination of travelers from all over the world. This enchanting portion of the Eastern Alps, declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2009, encompasses three regions enclosing an enormous variety of natural scenery and a precious and articulate cultural heritage. It is easy to imagine the many possibilities offered to those who wish to explore these mountains, appreciating their beauty and complexity.
The Dolomites, between postcard images and unknown valleys
When one thinks of the Dolomites, a few postcard images probably materialize in most people’s minds that have by now become globally known icons: the Three Peaks of Lavaredo, Lake Braies, Lake Sorapiss ,with that spot of blue that makes it unique, and Lake Carezza in which the pinnacles of Latemar are reflected. But alongside the more emblazoned places, there is much to discover, if you allow yourself the time to do so. In fact, the Dolomites are a succession of more or less well-known valleys, connected by scenic alpine passes and dotted with reliefs that seem drawn and instead are right there, providing a natural backdrop to every glimpse.
Experiencing the Dolomites as an insider
To discover the Dolomites as an insider, a first piece of advice is just that: open the map, put aside the most popular destinations and consider everything around you. You will discover a wealth of exciting views and open up the possibility of authentic experiences, far from the routes of mass tourism. And if those places mentioned just now still deserve to be seen at least once in a lifetime, it is best to make arrangements to go there outside the peak season in order to appreciate them at their best, in quiet and silence.
Be enchanted by the enrosadira (alpenglow)
There is a natural spectacle in the Dolomites that is so peculiar that it has a word to describe it precisely: it is the enrosadira (alpenglow), that moment when the rocks of the dolomite walls turn pink as the sun’s grazing light caresses them, at sunrise or sunset. A wonder that never ceases to amaze even those who are fortunate enough to admire it from the window of their homes and that enchants those who catch it with their eyes for the first time. It is not necessary to go who knows where to enjoy this spectacle: it is enough to be, at the right time, in front of a mountain oriented in the right way, kissed by the sun. An example? The walk from Passo Rolle to Baita Segantini offers a privileged view of the Pale di San Martino. Very popular on weekends, wrapped in a muffled atmosphere at sunset time.
Admiring the 360-degree panorama of the Dolomites
Here are three ways, from the easiest to the most challenging, to take in a 360-degree view of the Dolomites: climb a Dolomite pass, stand on the terrace of a mountain hut, or conquer a peak where you can feel at one with the surrounding landscape.
For the first solution, one is spoiled for choice. The Gardena Pass, for example, unravels between Val Gardena and Val Badia and, trivially peeking out of the window, allows one to review the vertiginous walls of the Sella, contemplate the Sassolungo and Cir, and, as one descends toward Val Badia, photograph with one’s eyes its idyllic landscape that rises from the villages on the valley floor to the rocks of Sass dla Crusc. The gaze can sweep as far as the Ampezzo Dolomites, including Lagazuoi and Tofana di Rozes. But the Dolomite pass that I carry in my heart is the Giau. Seeing is believing, especially at sunrise or sunset (avoid it in August, however!).
If you’re looking for a refuge with a particularly noteworthy panoramic terrace, mark down the Nuvolau: it can only be reached on foot and, from a height of 2575 meters, it is a veritable eagle’s nest rising to the summit. It is the oldest refuge in the Ampezzo Dolomites and still retains the charm of an authentic high-altitude alpine garrison.
If you really want to immerse yourself in the view, there is nothing better than earning an exceptional vantage point by reaching a summit. Here, the advice from a local is to target those mountains that some consider “lesser,” because they may be less famous than the surrounding ones, but for that very reason extraordinarily scenic. One possible destination is Mount Pore, a pyramidal elevation of volcanic origin that can be reached by climbing from the Fedare locality on the Giau Pass.
Touching history with your own hands
Now more than a century ago, the Dolomites were the scene of bitter fighting during World War I. Many artifacts that have shaped the current appearance of some of these mountains date back to that dramatic moment in history: a maze of trenches and tunnels, for example, winds its way up Sass de Stria and you can follow it as you climb to the summit. But also on Lagazuoi, among the Cinque Torri, on Paterno and Monte Piana, to name but a few, the signs of the First World War are very evident. These mountains bring with them real open-air museums, which with their historical value enrich a hike in the area with meaning and hold an important key to understanding the scenarios in which we move our steps and the profound transformations that these places have undergone over time.
Enjoy a genuine gastronomic experience
An area as expansive as the Dolomites is characterized by diversified traditions from valley to valley. Often, mountain refuges represent a bastion of traditional cuisine, where you can enjoy excellent local dishes (topped by a dreamy panorama). It is also worth visiting the many small farms and mountain huts that, through their zero-kilometer products, take care of the territory and also enhance it at the table.
Another, perhaps unusual, way to sample traditional dishes is to hang out at village festivals. Throughout the year, a rich calendar of events allows everyone to dive into local folklore and try those simple and tasty dishes that are part of the popular culture of the various localities. So, for example, when in La Valle Agordina the Om Salvarech is celebrated (in spring), you can eat tocà da boia (a soft polenta with morsels of sausage). Or, at Carnival, in addition to masks (carved in wood) there are simple sweets with a homemade flavor, such as strauben in Trentino Alto Adige or mognkròpfn with poppy filling in Sappada. Keep in mind that very often the festivals that take place in mountain villages are moments of gathering designed more for locals than for tourists and offer everyone who participates an opportunity to feel part of a living Alpine community.
The tips for experiencing the Dolomites as a local would be many more, for example, make research for each valley, consider the changing seasons, and include the many activities that can be done outdoors and beyond. The approach, however, could be this: choose a destination, slow down the pace, and prepare to welcome with curiosity and respect what each location has to offer.
The Dolomites are a place for adventure, for discovery, for connecting with a unique environment: asking advice from those who live them year-round can give you an interesting vantage point for getting to know them more closely.
Do you want to discover the unique scenery of the Dolomites by bicycle? Have a look at our tours!
