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From Innsbruck to Verona by bike along the Isarco and Adige valleys
Over the years, it has earned a leading role in the panorama of Italian bicycle routes, thanks to the quality of its infrastructure and services but also to the beauty of the landscapes and cities it passes through. I am talking about the Adige bicycle path that connects Bolzano to Verona.
And if you want to lengthen the route, the most immediate route is down from the Brenner Pass following the Eisack Valley. We cycled this route in different seasons, enjoying the warm spring sunshine, summer breezes, and autumn forest colors: there is no time more suitable than another… even in winter (before the snow covers the bike path) it could be evocative to ride in these areas!
Innsbruck and the Tyrol by Bike
Just over the state border, nestled among the high Alpine peaks, Innsbruck watches over the slow-moving waters of the river for which it is named. It is the ideal starting point for embarking on a journey south along the Sunshine Cycling Trail, which, after passing the Brenner Pass, enters Italy. The capital of North Tyrol will welcome you with its Golden Roof (Goldenes Dachl) and that Central European air typical of cities beyond the Alps.
To reach the Italian-Austrian border, you can follow the Eurovelo 7 long-distance route or jump on a train that will stop in the town of Brenner: the stop is just a few meters from the entrance of the bike path and this is the point from which we started pedaling… not before enjoying a good coffee!
From Brenner to Bolzano along the Eisack valley
The crossing into Italy coincides with the entrance into the Eisack Valley and the beginning of the slow but inexorable descent from the Alps to the Po Valley. The cycle route follows the course of the river in part, until it enters the Adige at Bolzano, but in the first part the cycle route coincides with a former railway, decommissioned in 1999 as it was replaced with a long tunnel and redeveloped as a cycle-pedestrian route. The route on the old tracks enters the Fleres Valley, a side valley of the Eisack Valley, and then exits it by reaching Colle Isarco. We meet a mother with two small children who immediately engage in a challenge with yours truly. I have to surrender to their resourcefulness and the good excuse is the bucolic South Tyrolean landscapes that deserve a photo stop…see you guys further down the valley!
A short ascent is the only asperity before reaching Vipiteno, which is crossed by the route. The small town is well worth a visit, and after passing under the lofty Tower of the Twelve we return in a short time out of traffic and onto a protected site. Castel Tasso and Castel Pietra are typical examples of the multitude of manors from different eras found in these valleys. We will lose count before we reach the end of the first day of cycling.
Between one pedal stroke and the next, we reach Fortezza, which owes its name to the huge Austro-Hungarian building of wartime origin that towers above the town. Right near the fortress is the bicycle “junction” that would lead to the Pustertal valley but that is not our destination today. We continue on and in no time we find ourselves, with a rather abrupt descent, at the gates of Brixen. If you love good wines, a visit to the ancient Novacella Abbey cannot be avoided. The bike path follows the course of the Eisack, staying on the edge of the old town. Brixen is also worth discovering so leave your bike at the post for a while and explore its narrow streets on foot.
The Eisack becomes swollen by receiving the waters of the Rienza River coming down from the Pustertal valley, and over the millennia it has carved out the valley, which further on narrows to become almost a canyon. Not far from the narrowest point is Chiusa, a name that explicates its location and historical role as a customs town. Every kilometer is a discovery, and after the Sabiona monastery, the valley slopes are home to Trostburg Castle overlooking Ponte Gardena. The bike path in this section is atmospheric and meanders along the valley floor following the river. This section also follows the old trackbed of a now disused railway, and the arranged tunnels are illuminated by special photocells as we pass. The provincial capital is now close by, and all we have to do is pass Prato all’Isarco and Cardano to reach the city center, remaining practically always on a bicycle path. After about 100 km of the route immersed in the Alps, we then reach the first city of some size on the route. The local government has invested heavily in cycling, and Bolzano rightfully bears the appellation “bicycle city.” One can reach the heart of the city, Walther Square, by staying in the saddle to stop and admire the towering Gothic cathedral with its green and gold roof. Piazza delle Erbe and the well-known arcades are more pleasant to visit on foot, so the advice is to leave your bike in one of the many designated spaces and continue on your own two feet.
The Adige Valley: from Bolzano to Verona
Bolzano is an important junction for cycling in the province, and this is where the Isarco, Adige (to the Venosta valley and to Verona) and Oltradige cycling routes arrive and depart.
Continuing south, one reaches the foot of castel Firmiano, which dominates the city from a hilltop. Just below the castle the Eisack flows into the Etsch and so does its bicycle path. It continues south, leaving the traffic (albeit composed and limited) of the city behind to pass through vast agricultural plots. The Adige Valley is renowned for the excellent wines that are grown along its entire course: further north, Gewurztraminer takes center stage while further south Teroldego takes over. If you decide to make a stop at the winery, remember to drink in moderation: alcohol and muscle don’t get along too well when it comes to cycling!
Before leaving South Tyrol to enter Trentino, we pass by the Ora train station, which was once also the starting junction of the Val di Fiemme Railway that has now become a prestigious bicycle touring route (unpaved but doable with travel bikes). Again, however, the destination of our ride does not include any climbs, so we now continue on the flat towards Trento, leaving behind the Rotalian plain and the Foci dell’Avisio biotope, another tributary of the Adige River. The bike path all the while follows the course of the river and enters the city along the river route. A short detour will allow you to reach Piazza Duomo, at the foot of Neptune, whileyou will hardly even have to leave the bike path if you want to visit MUSE, Trento’s science museum.
The pedaling is loose and so you can continue south past the large BiciGrill in the capital city. You flank the Caproni airport (small and not very busy) and then head toward another town that deserves a short detour: Rovereto. Before you get there, however, you will be able to admire the majesty of Castel Beseno on the orographic left of the Adige Valley: if you want to go up you can visit the castle with little effort.
The Trentino countryside is manicured and well-maintained, and it will be a pleasure to ride through the vineyards. In Rovereto, staying on the bike path, you have two options:
- continue southward by continuing on the Sunshine/Eurovelo 7 bicycle path along the Adige River. In that case, you will shortly enter Veneto, continue on a bicycle route to Affi and Rivoli, and then take the bicycle path along the Biffis canal and from Bussolengo reach Verona.
- detour west, cross the gentle S. Giovanni Pass and descend to Lake Garda near Torbole and then take advantage of the ferries to Peschiera; from Peschiera you can strap on your bike again to head to the city of Romeo and Juliet and the Arena and end this few-day ride of the Alps. This option is perhaps more attractive because it will change your viewpoint, panorama and landscape, while also allowing you to enjoy a climate mitigated by the breeze of Lake Garda.
If you want to follow our tracks and ride the Sunshine Cycle Path from Innsbruck to Verona by bike, you can rely on Girolibero and its tours:
